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Posts Tagged ‘New Orleans’

  1. Licking Your Elbow–Tongue Po Boy

    February 13, 2014 by David Bridges

    It sure has been a long time since I did a post! In my pursuit of getting this book published I accumulated many recipes and essays. As I sit here and they sit here we both need to do something. Forgive me for having no pictures. BUT, I can always add those later. I will have some free time for a while or more likely forever. The Voice still drives this site. That will never change. As a reminder, you’d be a fool to not read the recipe methods.

    Growing up in New Orleans has more advantages than disadvantages. Your taught an appreciation for fine foodways at a very early age. I remember going to City Park and eating Roast Beef Po Boys. The warm gravy and beef would mix with the chill of the mayo, tomato and lettuce to form a lush nectar that would literally run down your arm as it succumbed from the weight of your bite into the crackling and chewy French bread. It was instilled in me at the age of 8, that if the gravy didn’t run down your arm, it wasn’t a properly dressed Po Boy. Thanks to the Po Boy, I haven’t been properly dressed since.

     

    Tongue and Gravy Deep Fried Po Boy

    Serves 4 People for a Lunch Date

     

    1 Beef Tongue about 2.5 pounds

    1 Yellow Onion peeled and roughly chopped

    2 stalks of Celery roughly chopped

    8 cloves of Garlic

    1 medium Carrot roughly chopped

    2 Bay Leaves

    2 teaspoons of freshly ground Black Pepper

    8 sprigs of fresh Thyme

    1 quart of Beef Broth

    1/3 cup Butter

    1/3 cup Flour

    1 loaf New Orleans French Bread

    Mayonnaise

    shredded Iceberg lettuce

    slices of Tomato

    slices of pickle

    Sea or Kosher Salt

    For the Frying Batter:

    2 cups Flour

    2 teaspoons Baking Powder

    1 teaspoon Sea or Kosher Salt

    1 Egg

    2 cups Milk

     

    Get a medium sized braising pot with a nice fitting lid out of one of your cabinets. Put the tongue, onion, celery, garlic, carrot, bay leaves, pepper, thyme and beef broth into your pot. Bring the pot to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover your tongue with the lid and lower the heat to very low. Let the tongue bathe in the broth for 1 hour and 10 minutes. Uncover the pot, turn off the heat and let the tongue ponder life in the pot for 20 minutes. Remove the tongue and set aside. Strain the stock into a container and place the pot back onto the stove. Melt the butter over low heat and stir in the flour until they are unified and agreeable to the task at hand. Pour the strained broth into the roux and let the mixture simmer for a few minutes. Turn off the heat, taste the gravy and season it with salt and pepper to your delight. Trim, peel and discard the outer tough layer of the tongue. Slice the tongue thinly and place it into the gravy. Hold aside and keep warm with love and attention.

    For the Frying Batter:

    Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl and hold aside until someone screams “Show Time”.

    To Assemble the Po Boys:

    Pre-heat your fryer to 375 degrees. Cut the French bread into quarters. Then cut each quarter horizontally 3/4 of the way through, so that it will open like a clam shell. Spread an enjoyable amount of mayonnaise on the inside of the 4 sandwiches. Divide the sliced Tongue amongst the sandwiches equally or unequally, it is up to you how you want to treat your friends. Place the lettuce, tomato and pickle into the Po Boys. Close the “clam shell” up and insert 2 toothpicks into the lips of each Po Boy to keep their mouth closed while in the fryer. Have someone loudly proclaim “SHOW TIME”. Then dip each Po Boy into the batter and dip the Po Boy so slowly into the fryer that it is literally starting to fry while still in your hand. This will help the Po Boy not to stick to your fryer basket. Just watch what you are doing and try not to be too inebriated to the point of burning yourself like an idiot. Fry God’s favorite sandwich on both sides until golden in your fryer.

    Take it out and repeat for everyone else. Cut each one into two and smother it in what you call Gravy but I prefer to say Amber Justice.

     


  2. Home Is Where The Hooker Is: White Bean and Confit Gizzard Cassoulet

    March 27, 2012 by David Bridges

    One of the most significant things we do in life is travel. Absorbing the smells, sights, sounds, noises and tastes of a foreign land during a sojourn can only be rivaled by sex. It all translates into a hand that completely guides the subconscious into slicing the onion that is our palate, revealing more layers than we thought we possessed. Show me a man that does not leave his immediate vicinity and I’ll bet his cooking is garnished with chopped curly parsley, he drinks Beaujolais nouveau in June and has quite the collection of tube socks.  A joke has a head and a butt, which are you?

    For every positive, there is obviously a negative, for every action, an equal and opposite reaction. The Yin and Yang if you will. That’s what life is about, balance. I have been fortunate to travel extensively in my post adolescence. That ability to travel was exactly how professional cooking got me drunk, lured me into her arms and took advantage of me—and still does. I must admit when it comes to traveling, I am a complete whore. I’m talking the nasty, addicted and living under a bridge type, not the cute Julia Roberts and Richard Gere’s Pretty Woman kind. This addiction has transformed me into a better man and cook by ten fold!

    But there is a dark side to it all. What connection do I have to any particular physical place? I am very connected to my wife and Rooter and Tooter. I love and feel connected to cuisine and all that it represents as well the ideals held forth by The Southern Foodways Alliance. If I am indeed anything it is Creole. My food, demeanor, hospitality and liver all denote Creole. Just like Creole, my personality is a gumbo of many different values all put together out of a necessity to survive in the most practical and yet pleasurable way possible.  It’s that whole Yin and Yang thing again.

    Would I feel a sense of place or home in Barcelona, Provence or Bali? Probably. But New Orleans is a well-traveled Madame herself. I, like her, have become the sum of all my experiences. When you sit at either of our tables, your palate and your heart will savor all of our exploits. Traveling has built a piano for us to play that just happens to have a few more keys. You don’t really want to be considered a man that cooks with flat musical tendencies. After all, isn’t it our goal to “play” the piano like Richard and Julia?

    Cassoulet of White Beans and Confit Gizzards

    This recipe is simple, prepare the gizzards from this link: http://www.therootertothetooter.com/?p=161

    Then Prepare the beans from this link: http://www.therootertothetooter.com/?p=298

    Place the cooked beans in a proper cassoulet vessel and top with the gizzards. Sprinkle with some bread crumbs, I use brioche, of course. Bake until brown from the warmth of your friends and your oven at 375 degrees.

     

    “Only after 20 years of devoted professional gluttony can I possibly have an actual opinion”  ME

     


  3. We don’t call it SUNday for nothin!: Bloody Mary “Bubble Tea”

    March 13, 2012 by David Bridges

    In my 6 or so month stupor from the blog, some of it being voluntary and some involuntary, there have been many fine creations to come out of my kitchen, bar and mouth. I have been reluctant to share with everyone due to involuntary reasons. But today, I have decided to volunteer my time back into the redevelopment of mankind to his former glory.
    We don’t call it Sunday for nothin! If you gaze towards the sun peeking from the crest of the horizon onto our souls, I will be standing with a beverage for all to spike a sense of invigoration back into your lives that have been drunken with a plastic liquor bottle full of insincere smiles, gender neutralizing clothing and cookbooks with yet another meatloaf recipe from a famous chef who “cooks at home”. Our sense of intelligence has just been slapped. Here’s a little secret: CHEFS DONT COOK AT HOME. Maybe 2 or 3 times a year. But for the most part, we are going out to eat. After serving 100s and even 1000s of people a week, we want and deserve for some one to attend to us for once.
    The quintessential Sunday late morning hang over breakfast. The Bloody Mary has legions of fans and just as many variations. The devotees swear by the medicinal and almost black magic properties that the beverage possesses in exercising the demons from your head. It instills a vigor back into one’s step and gets you ready for yet another day of reveling right when you thought another day’s worth of sin was too much. Feel free to substitute into the garnishes any number of vegetables and pickles or even a boiled shrimp, a crab claw and a raw oyster for that extra potency that one might require in the latter era of HIS life.

    Bloody Mary “Bubble Tea”
    Serves 4 people not ready for another day of Mardi Gras Parades

    1 bottle Fine Vodka
    1 bottle Tomato juice
    1 bottle Tabasco
    1 bottle Worcestershire
    1 jar prepared Horseradish
    2 Lemons cut into halves
    Sea or Kosher Salt
    Fresh cracked Black Pepper
    Firm Veal Demi-Glace cut into 1/2 inch cubes
    1 jar of each Pickled Okra, Pickled Green Beans, Pickled Quail Eggs, Boiled Shrimp, Crab Claw, a raw oyster
    4 stalks of Celery

    Pour 2 ounces of vodka into a highball glass that is over flowing with ice. Add 3 ounces of tomato juice to the glass with 4 dashes of Tabasco, 2 dashes of Worcestershire, 1 teaspoon horseradish, the juice of half a lemon and a pinch of salt and pepper. Use a long spoon and stir very well. Stir in 1/3 cup of your veal demi jewels. Impale an okra, a few green beans and a quail egg with a cocktail pic. Place the highly decorated pic into your beverage and plant the celery stalk down into the ice. Place a large mouthed straw into the libation so that the luxury of the demi-glace and tickle your tongue. Serve and repeat as needed to help your guests revive their sense of good taste and exercise the demons of bad food media.